La Bella Focaccia

Focaccia may very well be one of the most versatile breads. It is also one of the easiest to make well. I came across focaccia - focaccia that had a thin, crispy crust with a remarkably light crumb - ages ago when I lived in Italy. Although much more moist than a pizza crust, they do share some similarities. As there are far less toppings, they are usually quite strong in aroma and flavor which helps balance the bread. The difference is that focaccia is all about the dough with toppings held to a minimum. It is important to remember the beauty of this bread rests in its simplicity.

I learned the basics of making focaccia at school in Ballymaloe. But my understanding of focaccia specifically, and bread in general, became more refined with a few weekend mornings spent at Ballymaloe House Hotel. I would help Scott, the Head Baker, make a variety of breads and desserts for both the lunch and dinner services. He showed me tips that made the difference between an edible, yet decent bread or dessert and one which truly sets itself apart from anything else around. Rolling a bread before it goes into the loaf tin to concentrate the rising; folding in flour by hand instead of adding it into a mixer when making a cake, to minimize working the gluten; and to make an exceptional focaccia it requires time and patience...such attention to these often overlooked details is of the sort that start to bring this into the realm of craft. Scott also worked during his time off making artisinal breads and selling them locally. It was exciting and inspiring working with someone who was confident to create a unique niche in such a hugely food-aware region. I think this was the moment in which I realized that food done really well could be the avenue into doing something quite special.

As my wife is absolutely crazy about good bread, I'm sure I'll be kept fairly busy trying to make the perfect crust...well maybe not perfect, but we'll have fun getting close.

Makes 2, 1lb loaves

Ingredients
1.5 lbs / 680 g strong white flour, preferably stone-ground
2/3 oz / 20 g fresh yeast or half the amount of dried yeast
2 level tsp kosher salt
1/2 oz / 15 g granulated sugar
2-4 tbsp olive oil
3/4 pint / 430 ml lukewarm water
Varied toppings such as sundried tomatoes, fresh herbs or marinated olives, all to personal preference
A few pinches of quality sea salt, preferably Maldon

Mix the sugar and yeast in 1/4 pint / 150 ml of the lukewarm water and leave until both are dissolved. Add olive oil to the 150 ml of water. Sieve the flour and salt into a wide bowl, make a well in the center and pour in the 150 ml of water and most of the remaining lukewarm water, keeping a bit back. Bring the mixture together into a dough that can be kneaded.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured counter, cover and leave it to relax for 10 minutes. Knead until the dough is smooth and springy, about 10 minutes by hand. Set the dough into a bowl and cover with cling film and allow to double in size, usually 2 hours at room temperature. If you plan on making the focaccia the next day, place it in the fridge as it will slow down the rising process. When doubled, reach underneath the dough and lifting it out of the bowl, allow it to drape over your arm. The weight of the dough itself releases air, thus knocking itself back. Tuck the edges of the dough underneath itself and shape into a tight ball. Place back into the bowl, cover and again allow it to rise for another 30-45 minutes. Repeat this knocking back another 3 times and leave to relax 10 minutes...yes, both you and the dough.

Split the dough and place in the center of a lightly oiled baking sheet (about 16 x 20 in). Brush a couple tablespoons of olive oil over the dough and sprinkle over a pinch of sea salt. Using the tips of your fingers and starting in the center of the dough, shape and extend the dough by very lightly dimpling the surface. Loosely cover with cling film and rest for 20-30 minutes. Do this several times, one pass at a time, until the dough is roughly 1 in / 2.5 cm thick.

Preheat the oven to 450 F / 230 C. If you want to include any toppings, lay them out over the surface of the dough. Do not put any herbs on now as they'll burn, waiting instead until the last 10 minutes of baking to do so. Add a last bit of Maldon, bake for 5 minutes and then turn the oven down to 400 F / 200 C and bake for a further 15-20 minutes. Allow to cool slightly before serving...che bella!
Tim Allen


Things to remember
If unable to find strong white flour, all-purpose flour will suffice.

As opposed to the usual heavy-handed method of knocking back by literally punching the air from the dough, draping it over your arm is also more respectful and incorporates a bit more air into the dough. Some recipes call for shaping the dough into it's final state all in one go after knocking it back once. Gently knocking back the dough several times as well as patiently shaping the dough over the course of a couple hours helps the dough retain as much air as possible. Yes, this is one of those key tips which makes this focaccia better than most.

To test the difference for yourself, I'd recommend splitting the dough and making one loaf in the manner described above and a second loaf by knocking it back once, resting 10 minutes and shaping it once. Making really good bread is about trial and error...believe me, I've made 5 lb monsters and others which have turned out light and flavorful enough to eat on their own. Trying to make consistently good bread is the challenge and quite satisfying when it happens.